For many Filipinos, the closest we can get to a truly chilly holiday season without breaking the bank is a trip to Baguio City. While a fancy vacation to the US or Europe might be out of reach, and a trek deep into the Cordilleras to places like Sagada or Banaue demands more time and effort, Baguio offers that perfect cool weather escape.
A Journey Through Time: Baguio’s American Roots
Baguio’s story began in 1900, established by the United States as a strategic hill station. American officials stationed in the Philippines desperately needed a respite from the sweltering lowland heat. The northern mountains, with their crisp, cool air, proved to be the ideal spot for a summer capital.
Before paved roads, Baguio was linked to the lowlands by a simple horse trail from Naguilian, La Union. To make travel from Manila quicker and easier, the American colonial government decided to build a permanent road from Rosario, La Union. Construction kicked off in 1903, a massive undertaking that involved carving through Benguet’s rugged terrain. Thousands of local and foreign workers toiled, directed by US Army Corps of Engineers Colonel Lyman Kennon. The road, a testament to their efforts, officially opened on January 29, 1905.
Kennon Road’s completion set Baguio on a fast track to development. Camp John Hay, a military reservation, was established in October 1903. The city’s layout itself was envisioned by Daniel Burnham in 1904, following the “City Beautiful” movement’s principles. The Mansion, built in 1908, became the official residence of the American governor-general, offering a much-needed escape from Manila’s heat.
Soon, Manila’s wealthy elite followed suit. They built vacation homes not just to flee the summer sun, but also to enjoy cool mountain air during the Christmas holidays. This historical foundation is still visible today, with iconic landmarks like the Lion’s Head greeting travelers as they ascend into Baguio.
Baguio Today: A Beloved Holiday Haven
Even though Baguio has grown into a bustling urban center over the years, it still holds its charm as a top holiday destination, especially during Christmas. The cool air and festive atmosphere create a unique experience.
You can still find reminders of its past, like The Mansion, which has stood since the early 1900s, reminding everyone of Baguio’s origins as the American summer capital.
Navigating the Scenic Route: Kennon Road
For many Filipinos, that first trip to Baguio is often along Kennon Road. Whether by car or bus, the winding climb from Rosario, La Union, to Baguio City’s roundabout provides a breathtaking introduction to the “City of Pines.”
However, it’s good to know that buses, trucks, and other heavy vehicles are no longer allowed on Kennon Road. The Department of Public Works and Highways (DPWH) – Cordillera office regularly updates its Facebook page on the road’s status, as well as other major routes in the Cordillera Administrative Region. It’s always a good idea to check before you go.
To get to Baguio from Manila via Kennon Road, you’d take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), then the Subic–Clark–Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), followed by the Tarlac–Pangasinan–La Union Expressway (TPLEX). You’d exit at the Rosario Interchange, head to the Rosario Rotunda, then turn right onto the national road. About a kilometer later, turn left at the junction leading to Kennon Road.
The journey on Kennon Road begins at KM 214. You’ll pass through the Camp 1 toll gate (currently not collecting fees), cross several bridges, and navigate through areas undergoing repair. You’ll eventually reach the Camp 6 toll gate at KM 235. The route continues through a newly built rock shed at KM 237 and then climbs towards the famous Lion’s Head zigzags, from KM 239 up to a charming view deck at KM 245. Kennon Road officially ends at the roundabout on Governor Pack Road. The estimated travel time along this scenic stretch is about an hour.
While Kennon Road is the most iconic, two other roads connect La Union to Baguio: Marcos Highway and Naguilian Road. These are generally longer and can be more congested. For those traveling by bus, several companies offer daily Manila–Baguio trips, some even with sleeper configurations, taking about five to six hours.
Baguio: A UNESCO Creative City
Since 2017, Baguio City has been proudly recognized as a UNESCO Creative City for Crafts and Folk Art. This acknowledgment highlights its commitment to using creativity as a driving force for sustainable urban development.
If you’re visiting during the Ibagiw Creative Festival, you might catch “The Pulse of Heritage in the Age of Progress” exhibit at the Baguio Convention and Cultural Center basement. This showcases the incredible work of more than 60 local artists and artisans. A definite crowd-pleaser is the Igorot Box Camera, an analog film camera used for traditional portraiture, offering a glimpse into local heritage.
Another fascinating stop is Art Tibaldo’s “Newseum.” This unique space features a collection of artworks, film and video cameras, and memorabilia from his impressive four-decade career as a journalist, photographer, and artist.
Along Naguilian Road, chocolatier Eva Ritchelle Padua is making waves with her world-class chocolates, all crafted from cacao grown right in the Cordillera region.
On Leonard Wood Road, you can witness local weavers at the Baguio Harvest CommUNITY Hub, showcasing their intricate handwoven fabrics. Nearby, Pilak Silvercraft displays beautifully crafted silver jewelry and tableware, a testament to Cordilleran craftsmanship.
A Taste of Baguio: Beyond the Usual
Baguio’s food scene offers so much more than just the popular Good Taste restaurant or familiar fast-food chains. Many local restaurateurs and chefs are creating unique Baguio dishes that beautifully blend international influences with fresh Cordilleran ingredients.
At the old Eugenio Lopez mansion on Outlook Drive, Amare La Cucina serves up delicious Italian comfort food with delightful Filipino twists. Imagine pizza topped with local dilis or ube halaya, or a refreshing strawberry taho ice cream. At Porta Vaga, Guest Haven Coffee offers an inviting all-day English breakfast, perfectly paired with freshly brewed Cordillera coffee – rich, aromatic, and proudly grown in the highlands.
Venturing to Suello Village in Tuba, two restaurants stand out. MOCH Café and Bistro is loved for its Filipino breakfast favorites like tapa and sisig. Then there’s Le Coq Bleu Homestay, where Frenchwoman Chantal Michaut-Pangilinan prepares French breakfasts with a distinct Cordillera accent. Think croissants with ube yogurt and omelets featuring kiniing (smoked meat).
Christmas Wonderland in the Mountains
If you’re seeking a place in Baguio that truly embodies the Christmas spirit year-round, Azalea Hotels and Residences is a fantastic choice. They offer cozy rooms, warm hospitality, and arguably the best breakfast hot chocolate in the city. During the holiday season, Azalea even hosts Dinawis at Mercato, an evening market filled with street food, pasalubong stalls, and live entertainment, all thoughtfully organized by the hotel team.
Baguio truly blossoms with holiday attractions. The Baguio Botanical Garden transforms into a floral-inspired Christmas wonderland with illuminated installations for “Floribenedicta: Where Blessings Bloom.” Meanwhile, the Camp John Hay Christmas Market turns the former military camp into a charming, European-inspired holiday village.
A newer attraction worth exploring is the Dragon Treasure Castle in Irisan. Inspired by the popular series Game of Thrones, this themed destination features medieval-style architecture and offers breathtaking panoramic views of Baguio’s rolling landscape.
These experiences, especially when combined with a nostalgic drive up the historic Kennon Road, can make your Christmas in Baguio truly unforgettable.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best way to travel to Baguio by car?
The most common route is via the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), Subic–Clark–Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), and Tarlac–Pangasinan–La Union Expressway (TPLEX). You can then choose between Kennon Road, Marcos Highway, or Naguilian Road to ascend to Baguio. Kennon Road is generally preferred for its scenery, but check its status with DPWH-Cordillera before your trip.
Are all vehicles allowed on Kennon Road?
No, buses, trucks, and other heavy vehicles are currently prohibited from using Kennon Road due to safety concerns. It’s best to check the DPWH-Cordillera Facebook page for the latest advisories.
What is Baguio famous for besides cold weather?
Baguio is renowned for its cultural heritage, particularly its designation as a UNESCO Creative City for Crafts and Folk Art. It’s also known for its local coffee, handicrafts, and unique culinary scene that blends local and international flavors.
What kind of local crafts can I find in Baguio?
You can discover a variety of local crafts, including intricate handwoven fabrics, beautifully crafted silver jewelry and tableware from places like Pilak Silvercraft, and traditional items even like the Igorot Box Camera used for portraiture.
Are there special events in Baguio during the Christmas season?
Yes, Baguio hosts several festive attractions during Christmas, such as “Floribenedicta: Where Blessings Bloom” at the Botanical Garden, the Camp John Hay Christmas Market, and evening markets like Dinawis at Mercato.
Where can I find unique food experiences in Baguio?
Beyond typical restaurants, you can explore places like Amare La Cucina for Italian-Filipino fusion, Guest Haven Coffee for English breakfasts with Cordillera coffee, MOCH Café and Bistro for Filipino breakfast favorites, and Le Coq Bleu Homestay for French cuisine with a local twist.
What historical significance does Baguio hold?
Baguio was established by the US in 1900 as a hill station and summer capital for American officials. Its development was significantly influenced by the construction of Kennon Road and city planning by Daniel Burnham, making it a crucial site in Philippine-American history.
Ready to experience a unique blend of history, culture, and refreshing mountain air? Plan your next getaway to Baguio and create unforgettable holiday memories!
References
The Manila Times
Department of Public Works and Highways – Cordillera
UNESCO Creative Cities Network
