Baguio sits about 128 miles from Manila, but it feels like a different world. The average annual temperature there is 64.4°F — roughly 48 degrees cooler than most Philippine lowlands. That temperature gap is exactly why the Spanish and Americans wanted Baguio in the first place. They came looking for a cool escape from the heat of the lowlands. What they found was a place already home to the Ibaloy people, who called it Kafagway.
If you’re planning a trip to Baguio, knowing this history changes how you see the city. The parks you walk through, the roads you drive on, and even the layout of the city center all come from a specific moment in time. The city was built as a colonial project — a summer capital for American officials. But the story is also about the Ibaloy, who owned the land long before and are still fighting for their rights today. Before the Americans arrived, the Spanish tried to control the area but the Ibaloy resisted. The Americans succeeded where the Spanish failed, partly because of a man named Dean C. Worcester. He studied Luzon’s highlands in the late 1880s and early 1890s, and later pushed the idea of a summer capital in Baguio, modeled on British Simla in India. When President William McKinley put Worcester in charge of colonial planning, the plan moved forward. On November 11, 1901, the American colonial government seized Ibaloy lands for proposed government sites. The Ibaloy were asked to register their land holdings — a concept unfamiliar to them at the time. When Baguio was declared the summer capital in 1909, many Ibaloy had no titles to prove ownership, so they lost their land. If you want to see some of the quieter parts of the city that reflect its complex history, take a look at Baguio’s best-kept secrets beyond Session Road and Mines View Park.
Kafagway, the Burnham Plan, and the Roads That Built a City
Each of these pieces tells a different part of the story. The Burnham plan gave the city its grid of roads and parks. Kennon Road made it accessible. Camp John Hay turned it into a military and recreational hub. And underneath all of it is the land that once belonged to the Ibaloy. The colors of Baguio’s public market — the strawberries, the vegetables, the woven crafts — are a living connection to the agricultural traditions the Ibaloy and other groups brought to the area long before the city existed.
Key Moments That Shaped the City
The timeline below shows the events that turned Kafagway into the Baguio you see today. Each one is a layer in the city’s story.
→ Scroll right to see all columns
| Year | Event | What It Meant |
|---|---|---|
| 1901 | Colonial government seized Ibaloy lands | Start of American control over Kafagway |
| 1905 | Burnham city plan published | Baguio’s layout was designed as a colonial showpiece |
| 1909 | Baguio declared summer capital | Official status that cemented land dispossession |
| 1909 | Cariño sued in U.S. Supreme Court | Court ruled for Cariño, but city status overrode it |
Baguio’s 115th charter anniversary in 2024 highlighted how much of this colonial legacy remains. Streets like Governor Pack Road and Harrison Road, and landmarks like Burnham Park and Camp John Hay, still carry the names and designs of the American period. The Ibaloy, once the majority, are now a minority in the city. If you’re visiting during the rainy months, the weather adds another layer to the experience — Baguio in the rainy season embraces the cozy vibes that made the city a retreat in the first place.
Getting to Baguio Then and Now
Getting to Baguio has always been part of the experience. The Benguet Road — later renamed Kennon Road — was the first real route into the mountains. It stretched 34 kilometers and took about 4,000 workers from 46 nationalities to build. The project was controversial. Critics called it a waste of money. Governor-General William Forbes, who pushed for it, was eventually dismissed after defending the spending.
Today, most visitors take the expressway via bus or private car. The trip from Manila takes about four to five hours, depending on traffic. Kennon Road is still open but is often closed during the rainy season due to landslides. The alternative route via Marcos Highway is longer but more reliable. If you’re driving yourself, watch for sharp curves and fog — both are common once you climb above 3,000 feet.
Once you’re in the city, getting around is straightforward. Jeepneys and taxis cover most areas. The city center is walkable if you’re staying near Session Road or Burnham Park. For a deeper look at the neighborhoods that don’t get as much attention, check out Baguio’s underrated neighborhoods beyond Session Road.
What to See and Do With the History in Mind
Knowing the history makes every stop in Baguio more meaningful. Here are a few places where the past is right in front of you.
Burnham Park
This park was part of Burnham’s original city plan. It was designed as a public space where people could gather — a concept from the City Beautiful Movement that aimed to promote civic virtue through parks and open spaces. Today, you can rent a boat on the lake, walk the paths, or just sit and watch people. The park is free to enter, and it’s a good starting point for understanding how the city was laid out.
Camp John Hay
What started as a contested piece of land that Mateo Cariño fought to keep became a U.S. military reservation. After the Americans left, it was turned into a commercial and tourism zone. The pine trees, the golf course, and the old buildings all date back to the American period. You can walk through the grounds and see the historical markers that explain its past.
The Public Market
The market was a key part of the colonial economy. It was designed to promote trade and industry while also creating divisions among Filipinos and between colonizers and the colonized. Today, it’s where you’ll find fresh strawberries, vegetables, and handicrafts. The market is a direct link to the agricultural traditions of the Ibaloy and the other groups who have lived in the area for centuries.
Session Road
Session Road is the main commercial street. It was named after the sessions of the Philippine Commission that were held in Baguio. The street is lined with restaurants, shops, and cafes. It’s a good place to feel the energy of the city and see how the colonial grid plan still shapes daily life. If you’re traveling with family, there are plenty of gentle walks and kid-friendly spots around the city center — Baguio with kids offers family-friendly activities that work well for all ages.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does “Baguio” mean? ▾
Who originally owned the land in Baguio? ▾
When was Baguio declared a city? ▾
Who designed Baguio’s city layout? ▾
What is the Indigenous Peoples’ Rights Act (IPRA)? ▾
Why was Baguio chosen as a summer capital? ▾
Plan Your Visit With the Full Story
Baguio is more than pine trees and cool weather. It’s a city built on a specific history — one that shaped every street, park, and building you’ll see. Knowing that story makes your visit richer. You’ll notice the layout of the roads, the names on the signs, and the land that the Ibaloy are still fighting to reclaim. When you go, take a moment to see the city not just as a tourist destination, but as a place with a deep and ongoing story. If this was useful, you might also want to read the sweet taste of Baguio strawberries and produce.
Sources
Baguio in the rainy season: embrace the cozy vibes — A guide to visiting Baguio during its rainiest months and making the most of the weather.
Baguio at 115: colonial legacies in contemporary cityscapes. EnvHistNow, 2024.
The making of imperial Baguio. IIAS, 2024.
