The History of Baguio: Tracing Its Roots and Evolution

Before it was the Summer Capital, Baguio was simply called Kafagway—a stretch of cool grassland owned by the Ibaloy people. Sitting 3,000 to 5,000 feet above sea level and about 128 miles from Manila, this area stayed roughly 48 degrees cooler than the lowlands, with an average temperature of 64.4°F. That climate alone is why foreign powers eventually fought to control it.

The name “Baguio” likely comes from the Ibaloy word bagiw, meaning moss. The Ibaloy people weren’t city planners. They farmed, hunted, mined gold, and raised cattle on the hillsides. An Ibaloy couple named Mateo and Bayosa Cariño owned most of Kafagway’s best grazing land. Then American professor Dean C. Worcester showed up. Worcester had researched the Philippines in the late 1880s and early 1890s and wrote The Philippine Islands and Their People. U.S. President William McKinley brought him into the colonial government. Worcester convinced Secretary of War Elihu Root to build a summer capital in Baguio, modeled on Simla in India. That decision changed everything for the Ibaloy — and for anyone who visits Baguio today. To really understand the city, you need to know how it got built, who lost land in the process, and what that means for the place you’re walking through now. If you’re planning a trip on a budget, this guide to experiencing Baguio without overspending helps you enjoy the city while understanding its story.

The Land Before the City

The Ibaloy people had no concept of individual land titles. They held territory through ancestral use — grazing cattle, mining gold, farming in rotation. When the American colonial government arrived, that informal system became a weapon against them. On November 11, 1901, the government seized Ibaloy lands for proposed government sites. Landowners were forced to register their holdings, a process completely alien to Indigenous custom. By 1909, when Baguio officially became the summer capital, many Ibaloy had lost their land because they couldn’t produce the right paperwork.

Mateo Cariño initially allowed parts of his land to be used for the city center. But when the government took more than agreed — including land that became Camp John Hay — he sued. In 1909, his case reached the U.S. Supreme Court. He won. But the victory didn’t undo what had already happened. Baguio had already received chartered city status through Act No. 1963, which gave the colonial government legal cover to claim Ibaloy territory. The Cariño family heirs are still fighting for ancestral land rights today. You can get a deeper look at Ibaloy heritage by staying at Tam-awan Village huts, where Indigenous Cordilleran culture is kept alive.

When the Plan Took Shape — and What It Cost

The American colonial government didn’t just take land — they designed a whole city from scratch. Daniel Burnham and Peirce Anderson drafted the plan, which was published in October 1905. Burnham had visited Baguio in December 1904 with Anderson. Governor-General William Howard Taft received the plan and approved it. The design adapted to the hilly terrain using a grid system with radial boulevards, linear parks, and promenades. It followed the City Beautiful Movement, which promoted civic virtue through grand public spaces and classical architecture.

But all of this came at a cost — both financial and human. The construction of Benguet Road (later Kennon Road) under William Cameron Forbes faced serious accusations of lavish spending and mismanagement. Forbes was eventually dismissed. In August 1911, The Philippines Free Press ran a famous story calling Baguio “Our White Elephant” — a colonial project built on exploited Filipino labor and Indigenous displacement. The criticism wasn’t just about money. It was about who the city was for, and who paid the price.

For modern visitors, the timing of your trip matters if you want to understand this layered history. The annual charter anniversary falls on September 1, marking Baguio’s 115th founding in 2024. But the real history runs deeper than any official celebration. The dry season (November to May) is the most comfortable time to walk the city and explore its historical sites — Burnham Park, the old streets named after colonial officials, and Camp John Hay. Rainy season (June to October) brings fog and cooler temperatures, which adds atmosphere but limits outdoor wandering. If you’re visiting with family, these family-friendly activities in Baguio can help you plan around the weather.

Getting to Baguio — Then and Now

The original route into Baguio was Benguet Road, later renamed Kennon Road after the American engineer who completed it. It was a massive engineering challenge — cutting through mountain terrain to connect the lowlands with the highland summer capital. Forbes’ administration was accused of overspending on the project, and the controversy contributed to his removal from office. Today, Kennon Road remains one of the main access routes, though it’s sometimes closed during the rainy season due to landslides.

The other major route is Marcos Highway, which was built later and is generally wider and more stable. Most buses from Manila use this route. Travel time from Manila to Baguio ranges from four to six hours depending on traffic and road conditions. The city itself is compact enough to explore on foot, but traffic congestion is a real issue — especially on weekends and holidays. If you’re driving, expect gridlock around Session Road and the central market area. For navigating the city’s traffic, these solutions to Baguio’s congestion can save you time and frustration.

What You Can Actually See and Do There

Trace the Colonial Map on Foot

Some street names haven’t changed since the American era. Governor Pack Road and Harrison Road are direct references to colonial officials. Burnham Park itself is named after the American architect who designed the city. Walking these streets gives you a sense of how the colonial government used urban planning to assert control. The park is free to enter and sits right in the city center.

Visit Camp John Hay

Originally established as a colonial military reservation, Camp John Hay became the site of Mateo Cariño’s U.S. Supreme Court case. Today it’s a mixed-use development with residential areas, commercial spaces, and pine-tree walking trails. You can walk through parts of the camp and see the recreational areas that were once reserved for American military personnel. The historical weight of the place — a military base built on land an Ibaloy family won back in court — is impossible to miss once you know the story.

Explore the Ibaloy Heritage Trail

Ibaloy descendants and local cultural groups have worked to establish heritage markers around the city. You can visit the Baguio Museum or join guided walks that point out where Ibaloy settlements stood before the American takeover. These tours aren’t always advertised, so ask at the city tourism office. The goal is to see the city not just as a colonial creation, but as land that was lived on for generations before any foreigner arrived. For a deeper dive into nature and history, Teacher’s Camp offers a quieter historical setting worth visiting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Understanding Baguio’s history changes how you see the city. The pine trees, the cool air, the park benches — they all sit on land that was taken, fought over, and never fully returned. When you visit, you’re walking through a living document of colonialism, Indigenous resistance, and a city still wrestling with its own foundation. Go with that awareness, and Baguio becomes more than a weekend escape.

If this was useful, you might also want to read Baguio’s top hiking trails for stunning views.

Sources

Experience Baguio culture at Tam-awan Village — A hands-on way to connect with Cordilleran heritage right in Baguio.

Baguio on a budget guide — Practical tips for enjoying the city’s history and attractions without spending too much.

From Ibaloi Highlands to Summer Capital: The Historical Evolution of Baguio City. Tour Guide PH, 2026.

Baguio at 115: Colonial Legacies in Contemporary Cityscapes in the Philippines. Env Hist Now, July 2024.