In the 1500s, when Spanish explorers first landed in the Philippines, they noticed something striking about the people they met. Residents of Homonhon in Eastern Samar had long, black hair that reached down to their waist. Men in Surigao tied their hair in a knot at the nape of their neck. A leader in Butuan wore his hair at shoulder length. For early Filipinos, hair was not just hair — it was a marker of identity, strength, and place in the community.
You might wonder why old hairstyles matter today. But if you think about it, the way we wear our hair still says a lot about who we are. It can show what group we belong to, what we value, or even what we believe in. And for many Filipinos, traditional hairstyles carry stories that go back centuries — stories about colonialism, resistance, beauty, and pride. Traditional Filipino beauty practices have always been tied to nature and identity, and hair is no different.
What Traditional Filipino Hair Care and Styles Actually Looked Like
Before rebonding, before chemical straighteners, and before colonial beauty standards, Filipinos had their own ways of caring for hair. They used plants and oils found in nature. And the styles they made were not just about looking good — each one had a purpose and a meaning.
The evolution of Filipino beauty routines shows that many of these plant-based practices were lost or pushed aside when colonial influences arrived. But they never completely disappeared — especially in rural communities where traditional knowledge stayed alive.
What the Research Doesn’t Fully Agree On
Here is where things get a bit complicated. Researchers and historians agree that pre-colonial Filipinos had rich hair traditions. But they also point out that over 500 years of Spanish colonial rule changed what Filipinos saw as beautiful. Straight hair became the ideal. Curly, wavy, or very short hair was often seen as less desirable.
Some of this came from what scholars call internalized oppression and racism — the idea that colonized people start to see themselves through the eyes of their colonizers. Marian Pastor Roces, a Filipino curator, put it this way: “As Austronesians, we have historically idealized a golden-brown complexion, long straight black hair, and more importantly, expressive eyes.” But she was describing a beauty standard that existed before colonization too — not just one that was forced on Filipinos.
The late 1990s saw a huge boom in straightening and rebonding in the Philippines. This lasted well into the 2010s. For many, it was just about style. But researchers also note that the preference for straight hair was tied to a longer history of colonial beauty standards that favored mestizaje — mixed European and native features. So the question is not about whether straight hair is good or bad. It is about understanding where these standards came from.
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| Era | Hair Ideal | What Shaped It |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-colonial | Long, straight, thick black hair | Indigenous practices, nature-based care, cultural epics |
| Spanish colonial (500+ years) | Mestizaje features, European-influenced styles | Colonial beauty standards, religion, class |
| American occupation | Bobs, curls, Western cuts | American pop culture, Hollywood |
| Late 1990s–2010s | Rebonded, stick-straight hair | Chemical straightening boom, media influence |
| Present day | Growing acceptance of natural textures | Social media, curly hair movement, heritage revival |
Things That Catch People Off Guard
Hair Was a Political Statement During Martial Law
When Ferdinand Marcos required men to keep their hair above shoulder length during Martial Law, long hair became a symbol of rebellion. Young men who kept their hair long were seen as resisting the government. This shows how something as simple as hair length can carry heavy political meaning. Filipino fragrance and grooming rituals have always been tied to identity, but during this time, hair became a quiet protest.
Traditional Hairstyles Had Specific Names and Meanings
From the Native Tribe guide, researchers have documented several named traditional styles that most Filipinos today have never heard of. Buntis is a bun worn high on the head with loose ends, meant to symbolize fertility and protect the baby. Tinikling is a simple updo named after the folk dance, often decorated with flowers or ribbons. Pako is an intricate braided style for special events that shows beauty and cultural pride. Tibay is two thick braids tied at the back for young girls, meant to symbolize strength and innocence. And Sampaguita weaves the national flower into the hair for weddings.
The Ilocano Epic Mentions Hair in a Wild Way
In the Ilocano epic Biag ni Lam-Ang, when the hero Lam-Ang returns home, 99 maidens wash his hair in the river. The dirt from his hair was so much that it killed all the fish in the river. This might sound funny today, but it shows how important hair was in Filipino storytelling — it was tied to a hero’s power and presence.
Gugo Is Making a Comeback for Textured Hair
Hair professionals today are re-discovering gugo as a gentle, plant-based cleanser that works well for curly and textured hair. Stylist Jan Edrosolan recommends minimizing manipulation for curly hair — too much brushing breaks curl patterns and causes frizz. The traditional approach of using natural ingredients without harsh chemicals lines up with what many hair experts now suggest for healthy textured hair.
What You Can Actually Do With This
Learn About the Styles Your Ancestors Might Have Worn
One simple thing you can do is look into the traditional hairstyles of your own region or ethnic group. Each style — from pusod buns to tirintas braids — carries a piece of history. You do not have to wear them every day, but knowing what they mean can give you a deeper connection to Filipino culture. Researchers found that many of these styles are being reinterpreted today by younger Filipinos who want to bring back heritage in a modern way.
Try Natural Hair Care Ingredients If You Want
Gugo, aloe vera, and coconut oil were the foundation of traditional Filipino hair care. If you are curious about reducing chemicals in your routine, these are ingredients that have been used safely for centuries. For those with curly or textured hair, stylists suggest a simple order: leave-in conditioner first, then curl cream, then gel or mousse to seal in moisture. Filipino beauty influencers are starting to talk more about these natural options, but if you have a scalp condition or allergy, check with a dermatologist before trying something new.
Understand That Beauty Standards Change Over Time
What was seen as beautiful in the 1500s is different from what was beautiful in the 1990s, and different again today. Knowing this history can help you question where your own ideas about “good hair” come from. If you find yourself feeling bad about your natural hair texture, it might help to talk to someone — a trusted friend, a community group, or a therapist who understands cultural identity. There is nothing wrong with your natural hair.
Support Better Regulation of Hair Products
Hair professionals in the Philippines have pointed out that there is very little regulation when it comes to hair products sold in the country. They have called on the FDA to raise safety standards. If you use chemical treatments like rebonding or straightening products, it is worth knowing what is in them. Supporting calls for better regulation can help make products safer for everyone.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is gugo and how do you use it for hair? ▾
Did pre-colonial Filipinos really have waist-length hair? ▾
Why did straight hair become the ideal in the Philippines? ▾
What are the names of traditional Filipino hairstyles? ▾
Is curly hair becoming more accepted in the Philippines now? ▾
What did hair mean during Martial Law in the Philippines? ▾
Closing Thoughts
Traditional Filipino hairstyles are not just old pictures in history books. They carry stories about who we were and who we are now — from the gugo washes our ancestors used to the braids that marked a woman’s wedding day. If you ever find yourself wondering about your own hair and where your ideas about it come from, that curiosity itself is a good place to start. And if any of these feelings about beauty or identity feel heavy, talking to a professional can help lighten the load.
If this was useful, you might also want to read how Filipinos share their DIY beauty experiences.
Sources
Is Filipino beauty becoming more diverse? — A deeper look at how beauty standards in the Philippines are shifting today.
How beauty affects career opportunities in the Philippines — Explores the real-world impact of appearance standards on jobs and income.
Vogue Philippines — September 2024 Issue. Vogue Philippines, 2024.
Allure Philippines — Curly Hair / Hairitage, September 10, 2025. Allure Philippines, 2025.
Vogue Philippines Magazine — August 31, 2024. Vogue Philippines, 2024.
Native Tribe — Traditional Filipino Hairstyles Guide. Native Tribe.
